Anti-Aging Creams

Anti-aging creams and lotions are easy to find in stores. You don't have to look any further than drugstore shelves and department store cosmetics counters.

Advertisers spend large sums of money to promote these products. Many hundreds of magazines and thousands of websites run articles discussing and evaluating them and US consumers spend hundreds of millions of dollars on them every year.

It's easy to understand the popularity of these products and why they should be part of any anti aging skincare plan. The skin is one of the first places to show signs of aging, and the baby-boomer generation is reluctant to give up on their youthful appearance.

How Do These Products Work?

The vast majority of anti-aging creams to work in two ways to enhance the look of your skin. First off, they can reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles and give your skin a fresher look with a more even tone. Some products claim to produce results similar to medical procedures involving injections of Botox or wrinkle-fillers such as Restylane.

According to the Mayo Clinic, some of these anti-aging products contain ingredients that may improve the skin's appearance depending on how often and how long you use the product. But if you are using an over-the-counter product, don't expect to get the same results you might get from a facelift, dermabrasion or other surgical procedure.

What's In These Products?

The active ingredients in most anti-aging creams are retinoids, antioxidants and exfoliants.

Retinoids work on the surface of the skin to reduce dark spots and even out the skin tone, and in the skin's deeper layers to stimulate production of collagen and elastin, which keep the skin looking firm and youthful. Collagen provides support to the skin, while elastin allows it to stretch and then regain its original shape. Sunlight inactivates retinoids, so use it only at night.

Antioxidants protect the skin from sun damage and from damage caused by antioxidants, molecules produced by stress that break down skin cells and cause wrinkles.

Retinol, which is a vitamin A compound, Coenzyme Q10 and vitamins C and E are some of the more commonly used antioxidants. Coenzyme Q10 may also reduce fine wrinkles around the eyes.

Tretinoin is a more potent version of the chemicals in Retinol, and products containing this ingredient are available only by prescription.

Exfoliants remove the top layer of skin and encourage the new growth of fresh layers of skin.

Some of the more common exfoliants are alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), beta hydroxy acids (BHA) and polyhydroxy acids (PHA). Hydroxy acids leave the skin susceptible to sun damage for several days after you stop using them, so you will need to use sunscreen while using these products and for several days following.

Other active ingredients may include:

• Vitamin K, which may help correct under-eye circles.
• Copper peptides, which stimulate collagen production and may make antioxidants more effective.
• Kinetin, which may help keep the skin moist and stimulate collagen production. Kinetin may also be considered antioxidant.
• Extracts from green, black and oolong tea, which help control inflammation and contain antioxidants.

Prescription or Over-the-Counter: Which Should You Choose?

Some anti-aging creams require a prescription written by a physician since they are considered medications. As such, they have undergone testing by the Food and Drug Administration and are subject to federal laws regarding use and distribution.

Prescription creams are usually stronger than over-the-counter preparations and may cause skin irritation, in some individuals, that can last for several weeks. Test a small patch of skin if you are a first time user. You should only use these products under the direction of a health care provider.

While considered medications, medical insurance may not cover the cost of these creams if their use is not medically necessary.

Over-the-counter creams are considered cosmetics and do not require a prescription. These preparations contain only a limited amount of the active ingredients, so they may not be as effective as prescription creams. They may also contain other ingredients that provide scent or a lighter texture, making the product more pleasant and convenient to use.

Although these products are cosmetics, you should follow the package directions carefully, as they can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight.

How Are Anti Aging Creams Used?

• Face creams: use before applying a moisturizer or in place of a moisturizer. If used as a night cream, apply it after thoroughly cleansing the skin.
• Eye creams: generally lighter in weight than face creams, apply for daytime use or as an overnight cream.
• Body creams and lotions: typically heavier than creams for the more delicate face or eye area. When used after bathing, take care to dry the skin gently and apply the product immediately afterward to retain as much moisture as possible on the skin.

Aging is part of life and comes with its own advantages and disadvantages. By using anti-aging creams, you may keep a more youthful appearance even as you age chronologically.